Kuching, heritage versus greed

KUCHING- It could be considered as the ideal city for travellers just five years ago. Going to Kuching in 2010 was a marvelous experience for travellers. It was a rather small urban entity stretching along the Sarawak River populated by a multi-cultural relaxed population. The visitor’s eye was always bumping into a range of narrow pre-war shop houses facing the river or some pieces of rainforest just in the midst of town.

Kuching’s heritage was also unique in Asia. For over a century, from 1841 to 1946, Sarawak was ruled by a British Family, dubbed as the “White Rajas”. They left a strong legacy to the town with a string of white buildings in Anglo-Norman style. The Old Court, the Fort Margherita, the Astana (royal residence) the Post Office, the Police Station, the Sarawak Museum or the Square Tower have some reminiscence of Jersey or Guernsey.

But for how long? Kuching managed to preserve its heritage and its tranquil atmosphere of a small little town until the early years of 2000s. But it seems that the city now wants to catch up with others and has now the ambition to be turned one day into the “ Kuala Lumpur” of Northern Borneo. However, it might at the end become only a pale copy of “Shenzhen” as mediocrity seems the signature of its contemporary architecture.

The first sign of this is the new shopping mall complex, Plaza Merdeka, built along the former Padang (Parade field) behind the Old Court House. Certainly a welcome addition to the city centre. And while its Filipino architect claims to have respected the historical surroundings by giving a classical-style facade to the new 550,000 sq ft, six-floors shopping complex, it managed to tally destroy the atmosphere of the area. If the building carries indeed a few ionic columns, the mall size is so gigantic that surrounding historical buildings appear like doll houses.

Worst of it: A McDonalds’ food outlet has been literally glued to the historical Old Court House. Dating back to 1883, the building is considered as Kuching’s most precious architectural gem. Now its back just bump into the plastic tables from the fast food giant. Soon the Old Court will be overshadowed by a 290-room hotel built over the shopping mall.

The Pavilion, a former medical facility built in a curious mix of English Renaissance and Colonial style in 1909, shares a similar fate to the Old Court. It is now glued to the new shopping mall. It might probably disappear ssome day if there is a need to further expand retail facilities…

Along the waterfront, the old warehouses have also been destroyed. Gambier Street market was famous before for its various style market halls selling fish, vegetable, pork or poultry. The first destructions started in 2009 including the Art Deco Garment store from 1929 as well as the fish market built in neo-classical style in 1870. Then came an unfortunate fire which destroyed a row of mostly pre-war shop houses. All the market halls made way to the extended waterfront promenade.

And more could soon happen. A bridge is due to link Northern and Southern Kuching over the Sarawak River, just in front of the new legislative assembly building near Fort Margherita.

The Northern Side –where forests and gardens are currently located- will in the future get “ a legacy square with nice shop houses” according to Sarawak Chief Minister Abdul Taib Mahmud at a press conference last year. Northern Kuching people will then be able to cross into Southern Kuching for entertainment and shopping. The South of the city-where hotels and the historical town are located- will in fact be densified with more buildings along the river. In a few years, visitors will then have the impression to be in any big Asian city and not in Kuching, probably deemed as “to provincial”.

Visitors to the ATF 2014 should then better take some time off and go around town to enjoy as much as they can the city’s relaxing atmosphere and his friendly inhabitants. Friendly people are likely to be there in another five years. But there is no certitude about the rest…

Sourced: TravelDailyNews