Because of its natural state, it is possible to
experience at this temple the wonder of the early explorers when they came upon
these monuments in the middle of the nineteenth century.
Shrouded in dense jungle the temple
of Ta Prohm is ethereal in aspect and conjures up a romantic aura. Fig, banyan
and kapok trees spread their gigantic roots over stones, probing walls and
terraces apart, as their branches and leaves intertwine to form a roof over the
structures. Trunks of trees twist amongst stone pillars. The strange, haunted
charm of the place entwines itself about you as you go, as inescapably as the
roots have wound themselves about the walls and towers', wrote a visitor 40
years ago.
A Sanskrit inscription on stone, still in place, give details of the temple. Ta
Prohm 3,140 villages. It took 79,365 people to maintain the temple including 18
great priests, 2,740 officials, 2,202 assistants and 615 dancers. Among the
property belonging to the temple was a set of golden dishes weighing more than
500 kilograms, 35 diamonds, 40,620 pearls, 4,540 precious stones, 876 veils from
China, 512 silk beds and 523 parasols. Even considering that these numbers were
probably exaggerated to glorify the king, Ta Prohm must have been an important
and impressive monument.
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LAYOUT
Ta Prohm is among the largest of
the monuments in the Angkor complex, the in scrimption gives an idea of the size
of the temple. The complex included 260 statues of gods, 39 towers with
pinnacles and 566 groups of residences. Ta Prohm comprises a series of long low
buildings standing on one level, which are enclosed by rectangular laterite wall
(600 by 1,000 meters, 1,959 by 3,281 feet). Only traces of the wall are still
visible. The center of the monument is reached by a series of towers connected
with passages. This arrangement forms a ' sort of sacred way into the heart of
the monument’; three-square galleries enclose the area.
Tip:
Some areas of the temple are impassable and others are accessible only by narrow
dark passages. It is recommended to follow the plan with a route and landmarks
indicted or to stay with a guide to avoid getting lost.
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Root of Bayan Tree on the Ta Prohm Temple |
The boundaries of the exterior wall
are recognizable on the west by a stone entry tower in the shape of a cross,
with an upper portion in the form of four faces, one looking towards each of the
cardinal points (not shown on the plan). The approach to the west entrance of
the temple is a path through the forest. After about 350 meters (1,148 feet)
there is a stone terrace in the shape of a cross. Remains of lions, serpent
balustrades and mythical creatures lie scattered in the area. Walk across the
terrace to the vestibule of the enclosing wall. The view from this point is
spectacular.
Every here around you, you see nature n
this dual role of destroyer and consoler; strangling on the one hand, and
healing on the other; no sooner splitting the carved stones asunder than she
dresses their wounds with cool, velvety mosses, and binds them with her most
delicate tendrils; a conflict of moods so contradictory and feminine as to prove
once more if proof were needed how well " Dame "Nature merits her feminine
title.
The next causeway with serpent
balustrades on each side leads to an entry tower (1) in the first enclosure
around the temple. Inside, on the right, niches along the inner wall contain
images of the Buddha. |
Return to the center of the
vestibule, turn right and walk through the courtyard to the annex building at
the right (2). Continue walking straight through the series of rooms and
passages to a tower (3). The relief on the horizontal beam is a fine
representation of a scene from 'The
Great Departure ' when the future. Buddha decides to leave his father's palace to
live the life of a monk, the gods hold the hoofs of his horse so those sleeping
in the palace are not awakened. Return to the courtyard and pass through an
opening as opening (4) in the wall of the second enclosure (at the south end).
The roots of a tree grip the double row of pillars in this gallery. Walk to the
center of the complex, turn right and enter the entry tower (5) of the third
enclosing gallery. The inner walls are decorated with friezes of pendants,
scrolls and figures in niches. Turn right again and walk into the central
courtyard (6) of the temple.
CENTRAL
SANCTUARY
Follow the plan and walk through
the Central Sanctuary, recognizable by its undecorated interior. The stone has
hammered, presumably to apply a coating probably of paint or gilt. Evenly spaced
' holes in the wall from floor to ceiling suggest a covering of wood,
stucco or metal.
Walk across the central courtyard towards the left (northeast) and through the
door (7) of a gallery that is framed by the roots of a tree. Turn left and walk
through a dark passageway (8) and a courtyard (9). Enter the aisle with pillars,
turn right, walk straight between twin towers and to the right into a very
narrow passage which houses the inscription (10) of the temple. Return by the
same passage, turn right and continue straight, passing through a vestibule
(11). The false doors on the north and south sides of the large rectangular
enclosure with high walls are finely decorated. There are four small courts with
galleries and pillars (12). Ritual dances may have been performed in this area.
Walk across the courtyard and into the entry tower of the enclosing wall, at the
east entrance (13). It is in the shape of a cross with pillars on the interior,
four wings and two passages on the side. The walls of these passages are
decorated with relief. To the left there is a hall with pillars placed close
together (14). They probably provided the base for a structure built of wood.
Beyond are small rectangular cells (15), which surround the exterior of Ta Prohm.
One leaves Ta Prohm by a path (400 meters, 1,32 feet long) leading to the
exterior enclosure where section of the wall are visible.
So the temple is held in a stranglehold of trees. Stone and wood clasp each
other in grim hostility; yet all is silent and still, without any visible
movement to indicate their struggle as if they were wrestlers suddenly
petrified, struck motionless in the middle of a fight, the rounds in this battle
were not measured by minutes, but by centuries.
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